Tuesday, I was coming out of a parking lot into oncoming traffic -- always a challenge here, as some of you know, because the drivers are crazy...never letting you in, pushing forward, making 2, 3 and 4 lanes out of 1 (sometimes going in the wrong direction). I pulled into the far right lane, intending to turn right at the corner, and the car coming behind and next to me just rammed into me, causing me to lose control and careen into two other cars before it finally dawned on me to apply the BRAKE. (After almost 50 years of driving, I now truly realize what "lose control of the car" actually means.)
Fortunately, no one was hurt, but the system is nuts (something I unfortunately pointed out to a police officer, which earned me a screaming tirade and admonition, "You're a woman! Be quiet!"). I had to go to the police station, then back to the scene with another officer (who took measurements in the road), then back to the police station to write a statement. I was yelled at (a typical Ghanaian form of social intercourse), intimidated, threatened with court action (which would have jeopardized my return home in two weeks), possible arrest if I tried to leave the country, and had my (U.S.) driver's license taken away. The locals just work these things out among themselves, rather than deal with the police, but I was damned if I was going to pay someone to have her car fixed, when I had insurance. Also, I needed a police report to get my car -- which was a mess -- repaired. And always, in this system, there is the very good possibility that the only way out is to know someone higher up than the person you're dealing with, and/orpay a bribe -- something I loathe, to my very core.
I felt very alone, vulnerable, and indeed, afraid.
However, I called my office, and a friend who DOES have friends "in high places", and the troops rallied. Felix, one of "my guys" (my staff) came to be with me...and told me in French to be quiet and let him manage things. I spent yesterday, a work holiday, pulling myself together emotionally -- vowing NEVER to come back here if I should ever get out! All staff were very concerned when I arrived at work this morning (by taxi), and during "the Other Business" segment of a staff meeting, I suggested a visitation schedule should I go to jail. (That produced a big laugh.) My "other guy", Venancious, spent the morning hob-nobbing with police higher-ups he knows, then took me back to the police station, where we met my insurance agent (who only showed up, I'm convinced, because my friend called his boss). Venancious also told me to be quiet. I obeyed.
I was sweet, demure, apologetic, admitted my guilt, and let the men talk. I got back my driver's license, paid only about $42 (60 Gh cedis) for an inspection of the car (probably 80% of that was a bribe), and later was able to drive away my poor, crippled, dear, dear 2001 Honda Accord that I was going to sell here...but now probably will give away.
As for coming back, the project wants me to continue as a consultant with 3 trips back over the next year. Yesterday I received an e-mail from the Chief of Party wanting to meet with me about that arrangement. It turns out Christel, a friend at work, TOLD the COP to write that note, knowing that they might well never get me back here. "We weren't going to let you go," Christel later told me, "even if it meant we had to put you in jail!"
xxoxo Love, Grammy
